Gunsmith

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing & Restoration' started by gundoc, May 20, 2004.

  1. gundoc

    gundoc Member

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    If it's not out of line, I would like to introduce myself. My name is John Baker and I have a gunsmithing shop in Montana. I do a lot of work for the other boards out there and would like to offer my services. I can't do everything, but I might be able to do your project. My signature is a link to my website, and I look forward to talking guns with everyone. Thanks!

    John (gundoc)
     
  2. IRISH9

    IRISH9 Well-Known Member

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    Hey gundoc, you sound like just the sort of bloke we all need on forums like this :D . I do a bit of tinkering (I wouldn't call it gunsmithing :wink: ) and fix or try to fix anything that goes kaput, next time I break a rifle I'll post here first.
     

  3. gundoc

    gundoc Member

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    Thanks, IRISH9! I am really glad that I found this board. I am reworking my website and this board will definitely have a link for others find it, too!
     
  4. Drop-Shot

    Drop-Shot Super Member

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    gundoc,I had to leave Helena to put 2 kids through college and miss Montana like crazy,any way,my question is,would hand lapping help with accuracy and clean up on most guns?Drop-Shot
     
  5. gundoc

    gundoc Member

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    Well, handlapping is done to remove tool marks and rough spots from the rifling process. There are a couple of ways rifling is cut, and a couple of ways to lap. I suppose I prefer fire lapping because it is more fun and less work, but hand lapping can indeed increase accuracy if your rifle has rough spots. How do you tell? A bore scope and visual inspection is best. I wish I had the bucks for one! Unless you are a bench rest shooter, I doubt the accuracy difference will be noticable for all the trouble it takes......but then again, that's why we tinker with our guns.
     
  6. markIVbigblock

    markIVbigblock Super Member

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    hey gundoc I was wondernig what u would charge to do a trigger job on my 10/22 trigger it has a power custom matched sear and hammer Id like to get the pull down to about 1 3/4 -1 1/2 lbs just wonderin if i could get some idea of what it would cost thanx

    Aaron
     
  7. gundoc

    gundoc Member

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    Are you sure that you want it that light? Taking an auto that light can cause problems. Trigger jobs for 10-22's and Mini's curently run $40, plus $10 for the return shipping and insurance.
     
  8. markIVbigblock

    markIVbigblock Super Member

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    thanx gundoc that sounds like a fair price ill hafta save some money up I have another question do u bed rifles? im thinking about bedding the action on my tricked out 10/22 and floating the barrel and am kinda afraid to do it myself it will have an expensive stock and a decent bull barrel on it and i dont wanna screw it up my undertstanding is u apply the release agent to the reciever then apply the epoxy to the reciever and fit it into the stock? is this correct? i may attempt this myself but would like to know what u would charge to do this? thanx

    Aaron

    BTW: the light trigger isnt a problem its just gonna be a bench rest rifle and will be riding the bags its whole life and i cant justify the cost of a kidd
     
  9. gundoc

    gundoc Member

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    I do bed rifles unless it has a Hogue Overmolded stock. The charge would depend upon:
    The type of bedding desired - i.e., Accraglass, Marinetex, Devcon, and the addition of any particulate metals to the bedding.
    Whether the stock already provides for a free float or if I have to adjust it for free float.
    Any pillar bedding or blocks that you would desire.

    If you decide to do it yourself (a good project for someone handy) liberally apply release agent to anything that could get bedding compound on it, and fill any voids with modeling clay so you don't "glue" the gun to the stock. After you've done that, make any mods to the stock and then apply the bedding compound to the stock, slip the receiver in and "snug" the receiver up. Clean up what you can as it runs out of the stock and leave it overnight. When it cures remove the receiver and clean up the over runs in the bedding. It is not a hard job, but it does require some thought and some care to do it right. There are also plenty of good books, videos, and BBS posts out there about doing it right. If you haven't already, check out http://www.perfectunion.com and get some more ideas for your 10/22. It's another great board I post on. Thanks, Aaron![/list]
     
  10. Riverhawk

    Riverhawk Member

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    Gundoc,
    Can you rebarrel a Remington 1917 Enfield ?
     
  11. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    I am not currently set up to do that model, but I could probably set up for it. Do you already have a barrel?
     
  12. Drop-Shot

    Drop-Shot Super Member

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    hi gundoc,I have a question,I just bought a marlin cowboy action 26 inch octagon barrel in 45/70.When hand lapping a barrel can you use valve cutting compound or is that to abrasive,I felt it was and ordered from midway lapping compound for barrels.But what about valve lapping compound?The reason I hand lapp new barrels is while cleaning my weatherby I only had to run a few patches and Its clean and my ruger takes 20 to30 patches to clean it.I hand lapped the barrel and cleaning is alot better,but how do you know when to stop? can you over do it?Drop-Shot
     
  13. Riverhawk

    Riverhawk Member

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    Gundoc,
    I have the original barrel on the gun but otherwise no other barrels, I don't really know if it needs to be replaced. I shot it a few times, a couple of boxes and it shoots all right but being made in 1918 I figured there has been plenty of time for someone to shoot it out and I don't know if it will last very long. It was just a thought, I might put it up for sale later and see if I could sell it.
    I like the gun for just what it is and what it has done for our country, with good men behind it.

    Riverhawk
     
  14. gundoc

    gundoc Member

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    Amen, Riverhawk!

    Drop-Shot, As with most things in life there are probably good and better lapping compounds. I wouldn't hesitate to start with valve lapping compound, but would finish with the finest grit of compound I could find. You can indeed go too far, but it is unlikely doing it by hand. I like to push a cotton ball down the bore with a wooden dowel and then look down it for places where the cotton may have grabbed a rough spot. Barring that it just becomes a matter of feel and how long your arm holds out lapping the barrel.
     
  15. markIVbigblock

    markIVbigblock Super Member

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    ok gundoc i have another ? for u it looks like im gonna end up buying a ruger #1 in .375 H&H and I was wonderin if u could put a black tip on the end of my fore end like on the old model 70 xtr's its like angled and theres a white line between the black and wood i think it looks really cool just wonderin if someone could do this thanx

    Aaron
     
  16. Drop-Shot

    Drop-Shot Super Member

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    Hey gundoc it's me again,Drop-Shot and I bought a Marlin 1895 cowboy action rifle.The wood is the best I've seen on a Marlin and I need to mount a recoil pad.How much would you charge and do you even do that?If not how hard would it be for an average guy to grind one to fit?Drop-Shot
     
  17. gundoc

    gundoc Member

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    Drop-Shot, I am sorry to have missed your questions. I can put a recoil pad on your rifle. I charge $25 plus the pad. You could do it yourself with a good belt sander, but it is a job of too littl and too much being easy to hit....just right, that's where practice comes in. As for your forend tip, I could do that. Probaby looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $100 depending upon materials cost. I will price it if you give me some specifics of what kind of forend you would like.

    Thanks for checking with me!
     
  18. Drop-Shot

    Drop-Shot Super Member

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    gundoc I wasn't the one asking about a front end,all I need is a good recoil pad.By the way,What is the best for the marlin 1895 cowboy action 45/70 with a 26 inch octagon barrel.How do I ship it?.Drop-shot
     
  19. gundoc

    gundoc Member

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    Sorry, it's been crazy here today. I like Pachmyer Decelerator pads. I have done a number of coach guns with them and they look good. They come in three thicknesses up to 1". If it's just the stock, take it off and send it to save on shipping, and I will send it back with new pad and the old one if you want it. My shipping info is at my website http://www.greatwestgunsmithing.com and your choice of carriers. If you need a pad they run around $25 plus $25 to grind it and put it on. Return shipping and insurance, call it $10 and I'll make up the rest. Let me know how you want to proceed! Turn around will be 1-2 days shop time.

    John
     
  20. Drop-Shot

    Drop-Shot Super Member

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    gundoc I am sending the stock and a check or would you prefer a money order?either way I'm sending it to you and I want the thickest pad you have.I can take the 1 inch and still mount the gun and have good trigger engagement.I use the old method of putting the butt inthe crease above elbow and the finger should slide into the trigger guard.I am about 3/4 inch off and the old butt plate was on there.So am I right about the 1 inch pad? let me know as I have to wait on a check to be able to get this done,but It wont be long.Drop-Shot