No problem midwayman,put your rifle in a rifle vise up side down if not a bolt action,if bolt action straight up.You will never wear out the rifleing with hand lapping.Get a kit from midway or one of the wholesale outlets.Brownells has a great selection.Use a stiff 1 piece rod and put a bore bristle brush a little under size of the barrel,wrap a cleaning patct around the bristle brush,you then add course bore lapping paste to cleaning patch,if bolt action start from reciever,if lever or semi-auto start from the muzzel but use a bore guide,they are cheap and will help center the job.With some force, but super tight where the rod is binding is too much,use less cleaning patch to proper size the bore.Stroke down and back and thats 1,stroke 75 times,add more paste if needed after 10 or so strokes,you will feel the grit.Clean the course off and re-wrap with new cleaning patch and use medieum for 50 strokes,clean and switch to fine,25 strokes,clean well and then use flitz polish and stroke 25 times reapplying flitz polish every 5 strokes.Clean the rifle and very light oil,try to get all oil out as much as you can.Push a cotten ball slowly through the bore and remove from the end,use a borelight to look for rough spots,cotten will hang up on rough spots and will tell you if the procedure needs to be repeated,about 50% of the time it will need to be lapped again.It's time consuming and enjoyable.If done correctly the gun should be more accurate but most of all you will be able to clean the gun faster due to the slick barrel.All custom rifles and all sako's and high end weatherbys are hand lapped before sent out.You want be sorry even if the accuracy don't improve all that much,but in theory a lapped barrel causes less friction than factory barrels and should be more accurate,but the shooter has to do his part.Drop-Shot