Simple question, out of the 100 rnds of handloads, two of them had primers that failed to ignite. Can I just push the primers out just like the other spent casings, or is it just better for me to toss them?
Just a general appology to peeps, I just found the Handloading forum on shooting world, I'll start posting my handloading questions there from now on. But please still take a crack at this one cause I don't know how to delete it.
You dont necessarily need gloves, but I definately wouldnt prime any brass without wearing my eye protection! A great way to kill a primer is to spray some WD40 into the bullet casing, let it sit a few minutes then use your depriming tool as normal.
I'm concerned to hear 2 primers are duds,how do you prime your shells?When I know I'm loading for the bench and getting a round accurate I just load, but If my rounds are where I want them to be and they may sit awhile,I put a sealant on the primer so moisture can't set in.The sealant I use is clear and just to make sure I know what loads are reloads I have added some purple dye to my sealant so I can spot them several feet away.I have reloaded since 1972 and have only had a few duds in all these years and thousands of reloads.Let us know what priming procedure you use and tools.Drop-Shot
I'll run through my procedure from the begining.
(editors note: I've only reloaded once so I have omitted the popping out the primer part.)
WHICH brings up a good question, should I clean and oil em first and then pop the primer out or oil and pop the primer out first?
1. inspect my brass for faults.
2. Clean them with soap & water, neck brush, tooth brush for
inside, and primer pocket screwthingy it.
3. Use cooking grade mineral oil and lube the cases
4. Run em through the full resizing die
5. Trim with case trimmer (Caliper every 5th for trim to length)
6. Trim the inside with that tool that does that and deburr
them too. (Caliper every 5th for trim to length)
7. Clean them again
8. Stick the primer in by backing the handle on my Pardner press
inspecting each one to make sure they are correctly seated
runing my finger over it.
9. Measure and fill with powder using scale, spoons, and trickler
10. Inspect for double loads.
11. Seat the bullet (Check every 5th for overall length)
12. Inspect one last time to catch anything I missed
Please point out any holes in my procedure that you see, I hope this helps
Cook it sounds like you have done well and I can't see anything wrong.The only thing I do differently is hand prime the shell to feel when the anvil seat on the case button,I did use the method you use with the press for many years with good success.Mabe the primers are old,that could happen.I buy the bricks of primers and keep them sealed in air tight containers and I've noticed the store shelves are stocked with single packs of primers.When I have had to deal with a dud I put the loaded round in a kenetic hammer and remove the bullet and powder with a smart hit on the bench,remove the powder and bullet and squirt a drop or two of oil in the shell and let sit overnight,then I just go through the sizeing and decapping the primer as normal.The oil saturates the primer shield to where it don't ignite.Try some new primers buddy,sounds like you have the process down and mabe its just a componant issue.Good luck.Drop-Shot
I'm with Dropshot on this one. I don't remember having more than 2 or 3 bad primers in all the years that I've reloaded. Do you cut your Primer pockets or just scrape them clean? If you're using a cutter ,to clean and square the pockets,you may have them too deep.This will keep your firing pin from striking hard enough to set off the primer.
The use of mineral oil to lube your cases is the most likely cause of your problem. Small amounts may be getting inside the casings and contaminating the primer. If your hands are oily or damp,this can also contaminate your primers.
Make sure you let the cleaned cases sit and dry overnight (sitting upside down). I've had the same problem you did and the conclusion I had to make was the same. I did not let all the moisture dry out. I generally try to clean cases a week ahead of reloading at a minimum to avoid duds. With a vibratory bowl, this would probably not be an issue.
Those are good points guys,I forgot to say let them dry well,I soak the rifle cases in Isso cleaner after I tumble and clean the primer pockets and let them set for a few days upside down.On another forum I read last night a person had several duds and threw the rest of the primers out and got new ones,and the problem was solved.HWD I only had a few duds but when I did I squirt a little oil in the dud case to kill the primer so when I decap it it won't go off on me,other than that I don't even use oil in the reloading process for the reason you mentioned and I think The Cook did the same.I'm not real good at explaining myself.After I had that load go off on me last spring(I posted reloading accident) I have been the most carefull reloader I know and its been nice slowing down,I don't go for quantity anymore with a single stage press set up,If I need alot of shells I will get a progressive press.I hope those duds are a thing of the past.Drop-Shot
Didn't you say you use mineral oil for lube?That sounds too light.Do you get tiny indentions on the shoulder of the sized case?That would mean excessive oil,the resizing lube is a synthetic base and leaves hardly no residue after its wiped off and doesn't collect in the die,I soak my cases I use resize lube on in a case cleaner called Isso I think its called,They come out super bright and clean inside and out,I get it from Cabelas.I also spray a cleaner like carb cleaner or brake cleaner in the resizing die from time to time to clean out any things that may become lodged in there especially oils.Oils that are too thin like gun oil get in the die and contorts the case shoulder,I had that problem when I started out,I could not afford to spend the money I needed to spend and comprimised a bit.The shoulders was slightly canted and when it was shown to me what happened I threw those cases away.I was shown the problem with a bullet and case comparator.If you can't get the film of oil off with a cloth then you need to get resizing lube,I know its more expensive but it lasts a long time.Don't heat your cases,just my opinion.Drop-Shot
I have 20 factory ammo rounds from remington that I've compared my cases to and have found no deviations. The mineral oil seems to have worked just fine, I'll tell ya if anything happens on the second go around. When you say BRAKE cleaner, you mean the automobile type brake cleaner right?
And as for bob and his comment about sushi and japanese cuisine... Sushi itself is not cook, but all the rest is. A sushi restaurant would be rather boring if all you could eat is fish and rice. Check out the menu if you are wondering.
Heya Dropshot, I just finished reloading the brass for the second time another 100rnds!!!! I am comfortable now with the process especially now that I am using those winchester primers instead of that CCI no.34. They slip right in.
Eh I did a good looking over the brass to check for canting, and the divots that you were talking about. Thankfully nothing that I can see or caliper so far.
When I lube my cases I put literally a drop of oil on my thumb, my index, and my middle finger, then rub em together, then lube each case reapplying more oil when nessesary. (about every 8-10 rnds) I looked at those oil pads and realized I'm going to be touching the brass anyways, and with the pad the oil will be all over my palm too. So might as well just limit it to my fingers
What I do with my resizing die after I use it is take a Q-tip and some rubbing alchohol and clean the bejesus out of it. Then take some of that cooking grade mineral oil and lightly coat it with another Q-tip. So far so good.
Dropshot about that brake cleaner, it's automobile brake cleaner right?
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