HELP - Freefloating Barrel on Browning A-Bolt II - Sort Of

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing & Restoration' started by Anonymous, Feb 14, 2005.

  1. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    I'm a member of Shotgun World and was looking for the rifle sister site and here I am....

    Last year I bought a new Browning A-Bolt II in 300 Win Mag. Its a Classic Hunter with a 26" barrel. When I received the gun, I noticed that the forearm had warped into the barrel - hence, no free-floating barrel. I called Browning and they said to send off to the local Browning certified smith. So I did.

    I got the gun back about 2 months later and everything seemed fine. Went moose hunting this fall, and guess what, now the barrel is touching the forearm again. I carefully removed the stock from the barrel to see what the gunsmith had done to correct the problem. Essentially, he added(?) epoxy forward of the recoil lug, just forward of where the barrel screws into the receiver. So....

    Is this acceptable? If bedding was added here, one would think that the recoil lug and receiver are no longer bedding properly (the barrel and receiver was tight to remove). It appears the the bedding forward of the recoil lug was placed to "push" the forearm away from the receiver.

    Is it reasonable to expect a wood stock to remain free floated on a factory barrel? I could have materiall from the forearm removed so that the barrel free floats again, but there is that questionable bedding job again.

    I ask this, because before I get on the phone with Browning again, I want to know what I should expect. Personally, if a manufacturer claims a product to be something (free floating barrel), then I expect this to be the case. Otherwise, fix it or give me my money back. No?

    Again, if no amount of repair by Browning or their certified smiths will fix this problem, then I want to know this as well. Then I can take matters into my own hands and pay for a proper glass job.

    Thanks for hearing me out :)
     
  2. Drop-Shot

    Drop-Shot Super Member

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    re: HELP - Freefloating Barrel on Browning A-Bolt II - Sort

    Partial bedding is not the solution.You can glass bed the reciever and relieve the barrell channel yourself.I use a 3/8ths dowll and wrap sand paper to it and use a stappler to hold it in place,look for the shinny wood that is touching the barrell and sand it equally on both sides.If it warps again then you have to decide if you want to keep this stock or not,I can tell you how to keep a forearm from ever warping again,but it's some work.My ruger would warp every time I got into rain or misty snow,so I put it in a Bell & Carlson stock back in the 70's or early 80's.If you like wood then I can let the secrete out.Drop-Shot
     

  3. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    re: HELP - Freefloating Barrel on Browning A-Bolt II - Sort

    Thanks for the tips Drop-Shot.

    I would like to keep the wood stock, so lay the secret on me :)

    It wouldn't have anything to do with cutting a grove in the forearm and glassing this, would it?

    I had a better look at the stock last night - I tested where the glass bedding is touching the barrel/receiver using caulk powder. As it turns out, the glass is only touching the recoil lug and the receiver/barrel behind the recoil lug. The new glass is just stabilizing the forerarm (not touching the barrel), although it only runs about 1 inch to 1 1/2 forward of the recoil lug.

    I talked to the gunsmnith yesterday who repaired the stock under warranty and he is willing to take out the glass he added and do a more extensive repair. I might just try the wood dowel trick first and if I get any stock migration then use the "secret weapon"
     
  4. Drop-Shot

    Drop-Shot Super Member

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    re: HELP - Freefloating Barrel on Browning A-Bolt II - Sort

    Go for it and if you need to know what I learned at a gunsmith class then I will tell you.Wood is nice and I miss it on my ruger,but I had no choice,I relieved the stock 2 times and it kept warping,you could see the wood grain lifting and my gloves would get caught and pull some so I went with the most easier way of fixing the problem,but I can tell you how to keep yours from ever warping again.Just ask.Drop-Shot
     
  5. Drop-Shot

    Drop-Shot Super Member

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    re: HELP - Freefloating Barrel on Browning A-Bolt II - Sort

    Yes it does require some cutting with a dremmal tool and epoxy so if you don't want to do that then you don't want the secrete,cause it's cutting into the fore arm from the inside,nobody can see it but when finished the fore arm can't warp ever again.If you are uncomfortable with this or your stock is a medallion (tiny fore arm)don't do it.1 1/2 inches from the end of the stock with the barrelled action out you cut into the forearm.First thing to do is find 2 pushrods from a big block engine and clean it with brake clean,inside too,no oil.Position both pushrods 1 at a time oppisite of each other but low in the stock,not the bottom,up about 1/2 way if you have enough stock,lay the pushrod along the forearm and draw with a pencil the out line of the push rod on each side.cut with a dremmal tool the outline of the pushrod and cut enough to hide the pushrods,a little below the surface.Epoxy the pushrods in place but make sure they are deep enough by putting them in and install the barrelled action and check for free float,if ok epoxy the pushrods in place and I use acraglass bed gel,but not too much so you can still have free float.Remove barrelled action glass bed it and wait 24 hours and I promise it will never warp again and only add a couple of ounces to the rifle.I learned that at a gunsmith school that I started and could not secure the grant to continue so it's not new,some folks use all thread and go longer.Thats the only way to keep a stock from EVER warping again,it's some work but not too much and within the capabilities of most every one.I have done it 3 times for friends and 1 of mine,it works.Drop-Shot
     
  6. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    re: HELP - Freefloating Barrel on Browning A-Bolt II - Sort

    Thanks for the info Drop-Shot.

    It wouldn't bother me to do this on my browning, if it meant a permanent fix to the forearm warping. The forearm on my A-Bolt is identical to a medallion, so yup, its thin.

    Regarding the pushrods, do you put these side-by-side or end to end in the stock?
     
  7. Drop-Shot

    Drop-Shot Super Member

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    re: HELP - Freefloating Barrel on Browning A-Bolt II - Sort

    I always put them side by side on the sides of the forearm,one on one side and one on the other oppisite of each other,with thin stock use something like all thread or smaller pushrods if there isn't enough material on the sides.Just putting them on the bottom might do the trick,I have never tried that.Drop-Shot