Sturm, Ruger & Co.: Notice to Owners of Ruger M-77 Bolt Action Rifles. The trigger over-travel adjustment set screw in a few of these rifles may not be securely tightened and may move too readily. This change in original adjustment can, in extreme cases, either cause the rifle to fire unexpectedly (with the safety "off") or cause the rifle to not fire at all. This may occur suddenly, without warning. Current production rifles have this set screw permanently secured. These rifles have a “T” inscribed on the under-side of the bolt handle. This condition cannot occur in any of our other firearms, such as the 77/22, 10/22, No. 1, No. 3, or the .44 Carbine, as their trigger mechanisms differ. For your safety, we ask that all owners of M-77 rifles (except those with a “T” underneath the bolt handle) contact us. You will receive a new locking screw that will replace your present over-travel adjustment set screw and detailed instructions for quick, easy installation. There is no charge for this service and replacing the screw will have no adverse effect on trigger pull. Do not use your M-77 rifle until you have received and installed the replacement screw. Please affix (transparent tape is great) your present set screw to a note including your name, address and the serial number of your M-77 and mail to: Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc., Dept. M-77, 140 Lacey Place, Southport, Connecticut 06490. [If you do not know which screw is the over-travel adjustment set screw,
I would like to add that this applies only to the ORIGINAL M77 rifles - the ones with the tang safety. If you have a M77 Mark II (with the 3-position safety at the rear of the bolt) this recall does not apply. If you are reasonably handy (can use a screwdriver without having to call 911) it only takes a couple minutes to replace the overtravel screw. This recall, by the way, is not new; in fact, it's quite a few years old.
Yep Ruger did have a re-call on M77 original's about 1987. I have one of the T marked bolt guns--got a screaming deal on it because of the rework issue.
I am just going to switch out my trigger with a Canjar. I'll keep the original around, but I like a real light trigger for varmints.
Kelsey I had mine honed by a gunsmith and everyone that shoots it says the trigger must be after market,it's the original.The canjar is a super trigger and you won't be disappointed.When I get back to montana this year I will remove the trigger stop screw and send it in for replacement,I'm so happy with the trigger I want to keep it.I just had a 26 in #5 contour stainless barrell put on it.The reciever is parkerized and the stainless barrell was bead blasted to take off the sheen and it looks good.I remounted the leupold and when I get to Montana I will resight.The barrell has been hand lapped so cleaning will be easier,I do it for faster cleaning and if it's a little more accurate then thats a plus.I even hand lapp my pistols for the same reasons.Drop-Shot
Drop shot- What caliber is your gun in? Mine is a .220 Swift with the blued target barrel on it. Its hell on coyotes and rock chucks. Who did the lapping? Kelsey www.luvtohunt.com
Luv2hunt.com mine is 30/06 and I have been very sucessfull with it,it's my confidense gun.I have many but I always come back to the 30/06.I do like the weatherby 300 mag and it is accurate but the last 2 muleys I shot with it ruined alot of meat.I had loaded some 180 gr barnes x bullets and just under factory velocity I shot less than 1 inch but I was elk hunting and had a deer tag to fill.The first one in 98 went about 350 lbs on the hoof.I regreted losing the off shoulder to blood shot meat.I think I will retry those x bullets slowed down by loading the 30/06 with them.How does the 30-378 do on animals?I heard they can reach out there,how bad is the kick?What do you reload in it?Drop-Shot
Hey Kelsey I forgot to say that I do my own hand lapping,a gunsmith back in the 80's answered a question for me.Why does my weatherby only takes a few minutes to clean but my ruger and remingtons take forever,he used a boroscope to show me why,the weatherby and he had a sako there and we looked down the barrell,both were smothe and shinny,the ruger and remington had what looked like crators in the grooves,he pushed a cotten ball down the bore and pieces of cotton were all caught in ragged places in the lands and grooves.He charged me for the first one.85.00 back then,he used a course,med,fine abrasives.I use valve lapping compound for auto's,I use a rifle vise and stroke with a smaller bristle brush with cotton patch wrapped around the brush,I use course compound first from breech with plenty of compound,the brush should fit tight but not binding,push down and back 75 times,clean the course compound off and put a new cotton patch on,use plenty of medieum compound and push down and back 50 times,then the same with fine.Clean gun thourghly and use some flitz and stroke the barrell 25 times,clean and push the cotton ball through and if needed do it again.A browning BLR took 3 sessions,about 7 hours worth(not non stop)I take my time and the gun will definately clean better,it is supposed to be more accurate but I use it for the cleaning reasons.Drop-Shot
I put a Rifle basix trigger in my M77 MK2. Trigger pull is now superb, and it's a drop in installation. No filing and fitting like with the Timney.
